KONKAN DARSHAN: A Cyclist's Pilgrimage from Goa to Mumbai
There are some places in the world that you visit once and cherish forever. And then there are places that call you back, pulling at a thread in your soul until you have no choice but to return. For me, the Konkan coast is one of those places.
This wasn’t my first time surrendering to its charm. I first cycled this magical coastline in 2022, and its memory has been imprinted on my mind ever since. This year, faced with a choice between a straightforward ride from Hubli to Hyderabad on predictable national highways, my heart made the decision for me. I had to go back. I had to feel that sea breeze, ride through those fishing villages, and taste that food again. I knew the beauty that awaited, and I chose the path of greater resistance and even greater reward.
This time, I wasn’t alone. I was joined by my good friend Srinidhi and our loyal four-legged adventurer, Bhairava. Together, the three of us set out from Goa with a shared destination: Mumbai. But this journey was never about the destination. It was about the darshan—a sacred viewing of the Konkan in all its raw, untamed, and beautiful glory.
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The Call of the Sea and the Echoes of History
Our wheels first hit the road in Panaji, the Goan sun warming our backs. The initial days were a blur of coastal roads and the growing excitement of the adventure ahead. Our first major halt was at Devgad Beach, a serene stretch of sand near Malvan. After a day of hard riding, the night’s rest was deep and satisfying. The next morning, we traded our cycles for fins and masks, plunging into the Arabian Sea for a scuba dive. In the quiet, blue world beneath the waves, the noise of the world faded away, leaving only a sense of profound peace.
With spirits refreshed, we rode into the heart of Maratha land. We explored the legendary Sindhudurg Fort, an imposing island fortress that has withstood centuries of salt and siege, and the nearby Rajkot Fort. Cycling through Malvan, you can almost hear the echoes of history in the wind. That evening, we embraced the true spirit of adventure, pitching our tent on the quiet banks of the Achara River, with only the gentle flow of the water and a sky full of stars for company.
The Rhythm of the Ride: Backwaters, Beaches, and Humble Abodes
The true Konkan reveals itself when you leave the main roads behind. Our fourth day was a testament to this, as we rode past the sacred Kunkeshwar Temple, its spire a landmark against the sky, and along the stunningly beautiful MithumBari Beach. That night, our accommodation was a lesson in humility—a tent set up near a petrol pump in Padel. It wasn’t a five-star hotel, but under the circumstances, it was our sanctuary.
The following days were a mesmerizing dance with the landscape. We crossed the Votan River, navigating the intricate network of backwaters that define this region. We discovered Kasheli Beach, a dramatic cliffside wonder that took our breath away. Our journey was a series of such discoveries, punctuated by nights spent in simple shelters—first near Poornagad, and then pushing on towards the spiritual haven of Ganpatipule. After a grueling ride, arriving in the temple town felt like a blessing in itself. The next morning, we offered our prayers at the ancient Ganpati temple, its foundations seemingly touched by the very waves that crashed on the shore.
Ferry Tales, Friendship, and the Grace of Strangers
The Konkan is a land dissected by rivers, and our journey was stitched together by a series of ferry crossings. The first was at Jaigad, where the formidable Jaigad Fort watches over the estuary. That ferry ride felt like a passage into a new chapter of our journey. We found ourselves in Tavsal, exhausted and dusty, and were welcomed into a local temple for the night. The priests offered us a place to bathe, charge our electronics, and rest our weary limbs—a moment of pure, unexpected grace. It was here that we crossed paths with fellow travelers, a group of cyclists from Europe, journeying from Mumbai to Goa. In our shared language of nods, smiles, and talk of the road, we found an instant connection.
Day eight saw us crossing another ferry and making an impromptu visit to the RGPPL power plant before finding shelter for the night at an ITI College in Dabhol. From there, the coastal plains gave way to the lush, rolling hills of the Western Ghats. Near Dapoli, the landscape transformed into a paradise of cascading waterfalls and breathtaking viewpoints.
The further we rode, the more we realized that the true soul of the Konkan lies in its people. On day ten, near Shrivardhan, just as hunger began to set in, a man appeared as if from nowhere and arranged food for us. After crossing another ferry at Vesvi, we found ourselves near Bapavan with nowhere to stay, until a kind stranger offered us a room in his home for the night. These weren’t isolated incidents; they were the rhythm of the road.
The Final Push Towards the City of Dreams
On the last leg of our journey, history and nature vied for our attention. After a ferry from Dighi, we rode through Murud, taking a moment to appreciate the centuries-old Khokhri Tombs before gazing out at the unconquered Janjira Fort, a bastion of strength in the middle of the sea. The beaches along the Alibag coast were our final taste of the wild Konkan before the urban sprawl of Mumbai began to appear on the horizon. Our last night was spent near Alibag, the distant glow of the city lights reflecting in our eyes. The next morning, a final ferry from Mandwa delivered us, tired but triumphant, to the shores of Mumbai.
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The Journey Within: More Than Just a Ride
This was more than a 12-day cycling trip. It was a journey into the heart of what it means to travel. We faced challenges that tested our limits—punctures in the middle of nowhere, long stretches of road with no food in sight, and the constant, nagging question of where we would sleep each night.
But for every moment of hardship, there were a hundred moments of pure joy. The incredible food was a daily highlight; I savored the authentic non-veg Konkani cuisine, while Srinidhi delighted in the vegetarian fare. We feasted on fiery Misal Pav, flavorful Usal, and of course, endless plates of Vada Pav. We drank refreshing Solkhadi that cooled the fire of the spices. And through it all, there was Bhairava, our constant source of joy, his happy panting a soundtrack to our adventure.
Experience the Konkan With Us: Announcing Our Luxury Cycling Tours
My two journeys through the Konkan have convinced me of one thing: this experience needs to be shared with people who can’t or don’t want to travel alone, and with riders who prefer a well-planned trip from start to finish. This journey is the reason to start a cycle touring company—so more cyclists can feel the same coastal magic with guidance, safety, and comfort built in.
Along the way, a survey was done of luxury stays and reliable, tasty food stops, shortlisting hotels, homestays, and eateries that match comfort with authentic Konkani hospitality for future groups. The route notes include daily distance, ferry timing windows, and elevation profiles so that the “hard” is handled for you while you soak in forts, ferries, and sunsets.
If this sounds like your kind of ride, share thoughts, questions, and route wishes—what pace, what dates, and what comfort level works for you—in the comments below. The road is calling, and the next Konkan group may be planned around your inputs.
Glimpses from Konkan
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“On this Konkan ride, a 2TB SSD carrying my Sri Lanka and touring footage was lost. Those memories were meant to live inside this film. If you’d like to help replace the drive and keep this documentary on track, there are two ways to support. Subscribe monthly to get early edits, behind‑the‑scenes notes, and GPX route packs. Or make a one‑time contribution to replace the SSD and backup media. Every bit helps, and every supporter will be credited in the film’s thank‑you roll.”